Food & Friends & Firsts

Today was our first day of classes, and it went better than could have been hoped. Our teachers--both named Nadia--are absolute pistols and keep us laughing and entertained so much so that the hours we spend with them go by in a heartbeat. At the same time, what we learned today surpasses it seems what we've learned in a year's worth of Arabic. Not because my Arabic teacher (one of my favorite people on the planet, another pistol and an all-around incredible woman) didn't teach us effectively, but because we sit in the class for four hours having it beaten into our heads then walk outside and hear all of it over and over and over again. I find myself relieved to meet and talk to Arabs who can't speak any English, as those who do wish to practice their English, and those who don't force me to speak and stretch my abilities. They are all very kind yet helpful about correcting wordage, pronunciation, etc. without making you feel silly or embarrassed. Most of them are astonished and excited to hear little blonde American girls butchering their language!
As a person very fond of having some small routines and practices, I am excited to announce the discovery of two new haunts that we have already frequented and will continue to: El Turko, a small and loud Turkish cafe that serves labeneh bil zaitoon that is to die for and is officially my breakfast of choice; and The Doors, a hookah bar/restaurant with excellent atmosphere, amiable staff that can't speak English (a plus for me), and passable food. What's great about The Doors is that there is a huge, beautiful covered patio you can sit on for hours in the cool Jordanian evenings. I'm not a hookah smoker myself, but my friends are, and there is something comforting and fun about sitting in the midst of tables full of Arabs smoking hookah and being a part of the culture in that way. The staff is friendly and accommodating, though I am sure our loud goofiness and inability to properly speak Arabic would have been frustrating to most other waiters and hosts. I would definitely recommend The Doors for anyone with time to spare who is looking for a fun atmosphere. I believe we were the only foreigners there, so its certainly not a "Western" or "touristy" spot.
Everyone told me to make sure I didn't just hang out with my American friends, and to branch out and meet Jordanians and other native Arabic speakers in order to optimize my time and experience. This was a daunting task. Not only did I feel coming in that my appearance (my hair) was a major obstacle to reaching out to most locals, but I felt my Arabic was insufficient to be able to communicate. However, most people are above and beyond even Southern standards of friendliness, and are generally curious and interested in our experience in Jordan and our lives back in America. My hair, eye, and skin color to the women especially seems only to be a barrier of my own making. A girl I met the first night I was here knocked on my door earlier to invite me to lunch, a party, and to hang out with her and her friends just over the next two days! Both of my language partners and one of the guys from Uni have contacted me several times to schedule coffee/tea and hang outs. Everywhere you walk men smile and welcome you. The men at uni will stop you to tell you how beautiful you are and then go on their way. Two gentlemen approached a group of us on our way back from class today and told us we were angels. The hospitality is beyond what I could have expected, and makes me slightly ashamed of how neglectful I am of students studying abroad in my own town and university.
The only thing that continues to give me difficulties is the behavior of men in the streets. I have never been so frustrated as when I realized today that I was not doing all of the things I wanted to do, and all of the things the guys in our group were doing, because I'm a woman. The fact is, it is not safe, nor do I have any desire, to go anywhere alone. Even with 1-3 other girls it is intimidating to walk to class. Most men merely leer and nudge their friends and point and gawk, but many whistle, cat call, and yell harassing things in Arabic and English. Some of them slow down to drive at a crawl alongside you and beg you to talk to them or go somewhere with them. Some of them call "bsh bsh bsh"--which is the equivalent of clicking your tongue for a cat or calling "heeeeree kitty kitty kitty". Some of them ask to take pictures with you, give you their numbers, approach you at restaurants to ask you questions. Nothing has been overtly threatening, but there is an element of being constantly under scrutiny and on display, and it is a little unnerving.
Overall, my complaints stand to nothing compared to the awe I feel in this place...I can already tell I will never want to leave this place. Ma'asha'allah.
Ma'a salaama friends. Until next time!